January 10, 2010
Posted by: admin : Category:
My Projects
The Bodice:
After I finished fitting the skirt and sewing to together with the tie on the top to attach it, I began on the bodice. I cut out the basic shape from a pattern I had drafted. I knew this patter worked because I had cut it out previously on some scrap fabric then fitted it together and made adjustments before cutting my real fabric. Though this may take longer, it really saves you from making mistakes on your real fabric (which can sometimes cost quite a bit!). I also cut out the bodice shape on my lining fabric (which was just an off white cotton) and basted/sewed the two together. This helped give the bodice more bulk and fit better.
After the lining and outer fabric were sewn together, I began hand stitching the boning into place. I have already outlined where the bones would go, and how big the should be. This made sure both sides of the bodice were the same.
I then took the two front bodice pieces and began making the eyelets so I could lace the bodice up in the front. Though it is more work because you have to make another cover for your bodice to hide the lacing, I really liked it this way. I was able to get myself into the costume without help from someone else.
To make the eyelits I used a hole puncher (yes, like for paper) and made one hole in the top. I then sewed around it in matching thread and made an eyelit. I strongly recommend you only do one eyelit at a time. If you punch all your holes then sew them in you will have a lot of fraying from the ones you are not working with. The holes can also get bigger and can not match up.
Above: You can see the boning is finished as well as the eyelets. This is the inside of the bodice. The fabric I chose frayed really badly and caused quite a mess so make sure to chose your fabric carefully!
When I finished the eyelets (which took a while) I attached (with pins) the back/side parts of the bodice together, followed by the two front pieces I had been working on. I then tried on the bodice to make sure it was fitting properly. I made a few minor adjustments and then tried it on again.
*Note: The best piece of advice I can give you is to continuously try on your garment. That way if there is a minor adjustment you can catch it early before it becomes a big problem down the road.
Once the bodice fit the way I liked I sewed it together on the machine. I then tried it on again and began to add some detail to it.
Here’s the bodice laced up. I wore the costume with a corset and without a corset. Either way the bodice does very well. I could easily wear it without a corset and get a very similar effect. I have begun to put the hook and eyes on the right side as well as added the beginnings of the sleeves and some trim.
The back of the bodice was simply a single seam down the middle and the attaching seams on the sides. I didn’t put any boning in the back, but did have it peak a small bit in the very center bottom.
Here’s the back of the garment. From now on I am also putting a few bones in the back as well to keep it from bunching when I wear it. The seams weren’t enough to keep it from happening.
Up next: The sleeves!
October 09, 2009
Posted by: admin : Category:
My Projects
Well, I have pretty much completed the skirt!
Pleating
I began by pleating the skirt on my dress makers doll.
Belt
I then basted the pleats and then basted the “belt” on to the top for wearing.
Temporarily tied
I temporarily tied the belt to make sure it fit and fell properly. I will later attach clasps for wearing.
Coming up next: The Bodice
Bodice
October 07, 2009
Posted by: admin : Category:
My Projects
Sorry it has been so long, but I have finally really begun work on my Anne Boleyn costume!
I have basted the outer skirt and most of the under skirt. I have also cut out, boned, and basted the under part of the bodice. It is starting to really take shape! I will upload pictures and post more this afternoon!
July 23, 2009
Posted by: admin : Category:
My Projects
Well, it has been a while! I have been super busy with my summer semester at my university the past two months, so I haven’t had a lot of free time. But, I am free!!!!! So, I am beginning my largest project yet: A Henrician court dress.
I have read a lot on costumes from this period (1530’s-1540’s is my focus) including The Tudor Tailor and Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women 1560-1620.
I have chosen my material: a golden pattern fabric and a dark red velvet (as an accent).
Material I am using.
Close up of the material.
I am changing the pattern slightly by not including the large foresleeves.
Jane Seymour. This is an example of the type of dress I will be creating, minus the large foresleeves.
Catherine Parr. Another example of the type of dress I will be creating. I will include the French Hood (shown here) rather than the Gable Hood (shown on Jane Seymour).
I haven’t decided what I am going to replace the foresleeves with yet, either a solid, close fitting sleeve (possible a toned down version of the large foresleeves), or a loose linen sleeve.
I am going to adorn the French Hood and the neckline of the dress with red, pearl, and gold billaments for some sparkle.
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